Well, not flowers, exactly, but the
leaves of flowers, because if you let them go long enough they will make
flowers, as most beings in the wild will do, on their own, or in couples at
least. But wait, I’m really talking about herbs – grasses and plants that are
still in their baby stages just now, beginning their push toward flowering and
procreation.
But really? I’m talking about flavor, and the insanely
simple but intense pleasure of walking out into the garden in the late
afternoon to gather an assortment of whatever is coming up right now to shower
over your supper. In this yard that would be spiky chives (some with fat purple
buds already) and flat-leaved garlic chives, the rough leaves of lemon balm,
purple budlets of mint, spears of Egyptian (Walking) onion thickened in the
middle with their incipient babies, that when cut into unfurl into new onion
shoots (how amazing).
And then you need to put your little
collection down somewhere and get your garden knife in order to dig out a spear
of green (immature) garlic, and gather everything up again and go on to pluck a
sprig of lovage, pinch off some tarragon, then don’t forget some soft oregano
leaves. Oops, back to the other side of the garden where you forgot the sour
sorrel (pick off those seed-heads while you’re there), the cilantro just coming
up, a feathery dill... (We would not be having those babies so early, nor be
forming those seed-heads if not for that week of heavenly hot weather we had a
few back.)
Whoa, that is quite the little salad
you have there and you haven’t even got to the lettuce. Or the spinach. Or the
baby chard or kale; nor need you get to these larger, more traditional leaves –
keep just the explosively flavorful ones, put them into cold water to crisp and
stay fresh for supper in half an hour or so, and then just separate them into separate
leaves.
I have been saying for a while now
that I’m really tired of cooking. Shhhh, I would say – don’t tell my readers.
But it was true. Everything was old – I think I even mentioned here how tired I
was of root vegetables and hunks of meat.
But now it’s spring nigh unto summer
and we don’t have to like cooking, we
could subsist on each successive seasonal food with no or just the tiniest bit
of preparation AND a shower of garden herbs. The little bunch of broccoli raab
I bought from... who... at the Farmers’
Market on Saturday? I simply steamed it and then tossed it in a bit of good
olive oil I’d heated with half a stalk of my green garlic and some hot pepper
flakes. We ate that with a small slab of Alaskan salmon I’d gotten from the
Co-op and grilled and showered with the herbs. Oh, and there were small
grilled/baked potatoes from Heleba’s, too.
Lunch had been a slice of grained and
seeded sourdough from the French baker next to Radical Roots at the Farmers’
Market, slathered with the pricey butter from the new Jersey Girls vendor, made
at their farm in Chester, and some of their Quark, a simple farm cheese,
drizzled with local raw honey from my friend, Julie, and coarsely ground
pepper. That last from Penzeys. Even
that benefitted from the shower of power herbs and provided a phenomenal
gustatory satisfaction.
That bread. That butter. Those tiny
green things. So simple, so good!
Now I’m contemplating doing justice
to the bunch of sturdy, red-veined beet greens with the tiny beets still
attached. Steaming, of course. Quark does seem to enter here as well, and
coarse pepper, too. Oh my yum. But I can’t forget the first sugar snap peas I
got from Radical Roots, either. Perhaps they will be eaten raw along with
another slice of that bread and butter. And a strew of herbs.
See? Not really cooking, just
fiddling, working with the cleanest and most local of foods using the simplest
of techniques.
This is the perfect time of year.
Oh, a recipe? Only if you insist – a
suggestion recipe
Hot Rice to Awaken the Flavors
in Chicken Salad
in Chicken Salad
Make some rice. For plain white rice bring 2 cups of water to the boil,
salt it – 1 teaspoon, stir in 1 cup of
rice, turn the heat to low, cover, barely simmer for 20 minutes without
lifting the lid. At the end of the 20 minutes either serve, or take off the
cover, cover the pan with a towel, put the cover back on. That will absorb the
extra moisture and keep the rice hot.
For the chicken salad: To 2 cups
of diced chicken, add half a dozen
coarsely chopped black Moroccan oil-cured olives. Then add the following in
small dice: 1 tablespoon preserved lemon
(you may use fresh lemon zest and a bit of juice), 3 French Breakfast radishes
(or any radish), a couple of cornichon, and, say, 3 tablespoons onion. Add chopped
tarragon and lovage, with maybe some dill;
then mix it all up with, say, ½ cup
olive oil and 2 or 3 tablespoons of
balsamic vinegar. After the flavors have time to mingle, serve it over the
hot rice.
But wait! That’s not all: Over all, sprinkle chopped cilantro and lemon balm and rings of Egyptian onion. The heat of the rice wakes up the many
tastes in this little dinner so that every bite is a study in contrasts and
comfort. Drizzle with a little more olive oil over the top; course grinds of
salt and pepper, too.
You will, of course, not go out and
buy herbs but use the ones that grow in your own garden. Perhaps you’ll even
have some basil starts. I haven’t
mentioned basil because I don’t have any yet.
Grow some herbs and make some green
showers of your own. Lovage, cilantro, arugula, dill, tarragon, lemon balm,
sorrel, basil, parsley, mint, thyme... the list never ends. Mix and match. And
when the flowers come on? Eat them, too. And then plant some more. It’s all
good!
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