One of the glories of summer is pea vines and their end purpose, peas, and I’m talking about peas safely nestled juicy and tightly in non edible pods, real shelling peas, the only kind I’ve ever grown. Perhaps this phenomenon will be more understandable when I tell you I have never owned a microwave, either. Isn’t that just amazing? I’m a gardening and cooking Luddite.
Leo is the pea-planter. This is
because the act of gardening, to Leo, means planting. Never mind the fall
cleaning and putting to bed, the seed ordering, the spring weeding, the
deciding where things should be located this year as differentiated from past
years... no, gardening is for planting, and he starts yearning to put seeds in
the ground in April. Plus, he has a somewhat elaborate system of 4 foot tall
fencing cylinders that need to be staked down for the peas to grow on, and only
Leo knows their secret. And so, this year, when he said he wasn’t going to
plant peas because he’d had no luck with them the last couple years, I had
already made the bed for them, spring weeds out, soil loosened and quiveringly
receptive.
I was disappointed but had done
nothing about it when Zoe came out and said, “Did you plant your peas yet?” I gave
her the news and she said, “No peas! What nonsense. Do you have any pea-seeds?”
I said yes I did but they were two years old, and she said, “What are we
waiting for?” So she fetched a bag of compost from the pile by the fence and
drizzled a good amount from a cut corner of it in 8 different hills in a row
and I worked it into the soil and fetched the seeds and she planted them in
eight circles and got her dad to erect his pea towers, all in the time it would
have taken Leo and me to argue about whether it was worth it or not.
I swear, each and every one of those
peas sprouted and grew, and for the past week that’s all I’ve been doing is
picking peas and sitting in the hammock and shucking them and eating them and
throwing the shucks in the lilac tangle. Good compost.
Well, that’s not all I’ve been doing
but it’s been a pleasurable thing to do.
This year’s peas form just one more
story. Here are two I’ve told before but are – in my opinion – worth repeating:
Once, long ago, my friend Carol spent a good long hour or so at our lawn
sale sitting on my front stoop shelling peas from her own garden into a big
green bowl. Plink, plink, they went, slowly covering the bottom of the bowl.
She’s never going to fill that bowl, I thought. But steadily she worked, and
steadily the emptied pods towered beside her; slowly the peas mounted in the
bowl. That night she served them simply steamed in a lettuce leaf, a pad of
sweet butter topping them, salt and pepper, in that same green bowl. The bowl
was at most half full. It was a beautiful sight, the peas delicious, and my
realization, that something as precious as fresh peas should never overflow,
one that I’ve never forgotten.
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| Isobel G Nimtz drawing |
That memory reminds me of M.F.K. Fisher’s paean to peas in An Alphabet
for Gourmets, when she recalls a difficult feast enjoyed with family and
friends over a campfire on a Swiss mountainside where she and her husband were
building a house. I rummage on my bookshelves and settle down to read the
passage. “...what really mattered, what piped the high unforgettable tune of
perfection were the peas, which came from their hot pot onto our thick china
plates in a cloud, a kind of miasma, of everything that anyone could ever want
from them, even in a dream. I recalled the three basic requisites, according to
Fanny Farmer and Escoffier [they must be very green, they must be freshly
gathered, and they must be shelled at the very last second of the very last
minute], and again I recalled Sidney Smith, who once said that his idea of
Heaven (and he was a cleric!) was pate’ de foie gras to the sound of trumpets.
Mine, that night and this night, too, is fresh green garden peas, picked and
shelled by my friends, to the sound of a cowbell.”
And that, my dear reader, is the way
peas should be shelled – by your friends.
I’ve grown lazy, or at least
simplified what can be simplified while retaining the best of itself, and this
year I have not shelled peas in any quantity – I have even been known to take a
basket of the first ones – fresh picked – to a gathering at the beach for
everyone to shell their own.
I did shell enough for two omelets,
which was not very many.
Pea-ifany Omelet
Serves 1
Have everything ready before you
start because this omelet goes very fast once you pour the egg into a hot pan.
- 1 teaspoon olive oil
- 1 teaspoon butter
- 2 large eggs, whisked with a
fork until not stringy
- 1/3 cup freshly shelled peas
- 1/3 cup freshly grated gruyere
(or other) cheese
- 2 tablespoons freshly picked
mint, chopped
- Sea salt and freshly ground
pepper.
Heat a small skillet or omelet pan –
about 9 inches – over high heat until hot, then add the olive oil and butter
and heat until hot. Pour the eggs in all at once and with a spatula lift the
edges all around and tilt the pan to let the liquid flow under the cooked egg
just until semi-solid then sprinkle in the peas, cheese and mint, cook for a
moment and then carefully fold the omelet in half with the spatula and let cook
another minute. Very carefully flip the omelet onto the other side and cook a
moment more, then slide onto a plate, sprinkle with the salt and pepper,
garnish with a bit more mint and/or cheese and serve.
When I’m serving more than one
omelet, I cook each one consecutively.
***
But here is what has become one of my
favorite ways of treating those peas:
pick a big mess of them and throw them all at once – unshelled – into a
very hot, dry, wok and stir fry them until they are charred and juicy, then
toss them with plentiful coarse sea salt, put them into a big bowl and take
them to the beach as your offering. You eat them like you eat an artichoke leaf
or edamame, scraping the tender peas and juices out with your teeth and
discarding the pod. Make sure the discarded pods are plainly identified as
inedible, and, um, Used!
So that’s about it for peas for
another year. I’m going to invite three little girls who really enjoyed eating
the charred peas from the pod the other night to come over some day next
weekend and help me harvest the last of them. We’ll toss them in a hot wok and
perhaps have another epiphany!
